YUNTANZA Hana-ui (Flower Patterned Textiles)
Although it is uncertain exactly when, this type of weaving is thought to have come from southern Japan, because of its very particular floral designs. What is certain, however, is that the cloth was being produced in the 15th century, as records show that gifts of this figured cloth were sent to Korea. There are also records of the cloth being presented to the King of Ryukyu from Java.
At the time, it was an official cloth of the Ryukyu Kingdom court and besides the residence of Yomitan, no one else was allowed to wear it. In the past, clothes of this fabric were woven in the hope of protecting the family, or given to a loved one.
The charming, finely detailed floral designs of this fabric stand out from their background, and the tropical atmosphere is further emphasized by the unmistakable feel of the ikat yarn. Various floral patterns are combined into fabric for kimonos or obi sashes. It’s even used for table centerpieces, with various weaves and designs used.
Yomitanzan Hanaori feature a lovely, delicate flower patterns on ikat dyed fabrics with a tropical feel. Patterns (including sokobana, tebana and kasuri) applied depend on the end product. For example, sokobana and kasuri for fabric, and sokobana, tebana and kasuri for sashes and handkerchiefs.
How to make
The weft is thrown by a hand shuttle and Mon Ori is woven by using hanasoko or lacing shuttles. Threads are bound by hand and dyed with plants including Ryukyu indigo, rhaphiolepis, garcinia and smilax. The thread is woven by takahata while applying hanasoko to warp threads.