Murayama Oshima Fabrics
While the history of this kimono cloth only seems to date back to the middle of the 19th century, it was in 1920 that the techniques associated with two different cloths were combined to produce the silk cloth known as Murayama Oshima Tsumugi.
One of these was an indigo dyed, figured ikat called Murayama Kongasuri, and the other was a silk cloth called Sagawa Futoori woven from a dupion thread. Its sheer quality and durability have always given Murayama Oshima Tsumugi a large following and it has been recognized by Metropolitan Tokyo as an intangible cultural property.
Kimono made of this light comfortable cloth is often handed down from mother to daughter and on to granddaughter, and the unfailing traditions and quality of this cloth are still recognized today.
Murayama Oshima Tsumugi fabrics, light and pleasant to the touch, have been passed down from grandmother to mother, and then mother to daughter through the years. They possess a unique fashion that combines the profound charm of a traditional craft, and style that turns heads even today.
How to make
First the ikat frame is prepared according to the design, and the individual threads are mounted on the frame and then tightly bolted to ensure their tension. The threads are then dyed using the ikat resistance dyeing technique. The ikat dyed threads are then gathered into bundles, and then dyed again using a single bamboo board carved and covered in dye paste according to the design. The ikat dyed threads are combined with undyed warp threads using a “Mazaki-dai” frame, wound onto the spindle of a “Makiosa” loom, and then woven according to the ikat pattern.