It all began during the Kamakura period when merchants from Hakata traveled to Song Dynasty China with Buddhist monks and brought back weaving techniques.
During the Edo period, Kuroda Nagamasa, the lord of Chikuzen Province (which corresponds to most of present-day Fukuoka Prefecture), presented HAKATA Ori (Textiles) to the shogunate every year, and thus it came to be known as "Kenjo Hakata" (presentation Hakata).

• Technology/techniques/raw materials

  Technology/techniques/raw materials

  Technology/techniques

  1. For presentations and alternative presentations, the fabrics shall be patterned textiles woven using the following techniques or methods:
  (1) The fabric shall be a plain weave variation using a pre-dyed or pre-processed plain weave fabric made on a "jacquard loom" or "dobby loom" (for presentation purposes, limited to warp rib weave).
  (2) The warp threads shall be grouped into groups of eight or more, and then each reed shall be pulled in by hand. In this case, the reed density shall be 72 or more reeds per 3.78 centimeters.
  (3) Adjusting the position of the "Twill Bamboo" and weaving while manually adjusting the tension of the warp threads to be uniform.
  (4) The crest shall be represented by a "floating" design.
  (5) The patterns to be presented shall be "Dokko," "Hanazara," and "Shima."

   

  2. In the case of Hirahakata, the plain fabric shall be woven using the following techniques or methods.
  (1) The fabric must be pre-dyed or pre-processed and woven using a warp rib weave.
  (2) The warp threads shall be grouped into groups of eight or more, and then each reed shall be pulled in by hand. In this case, the reed density shall be 72 or more reeds per 3.78 centimeters.
  (3) The weft threads shall be driven in using a hand-thrown shuttle, a pull shuttle, or a drive shuttle.
  (4) Adjusting the position of the "twill bamboo" and weaving while manually adjusting the tension of the warp threads to be uniform.

   

  3. In the case of striped fabrics, the fabric shall be striped fabric woven using the following techniques or methods:
  (1) The fabric must be a plain weave variation, twill weave, satin weave, or a variation thereof, using a pre-dyed or pre-processed plain weave with a jacquard weave or dobby weave.
  (2) The warp threads shall be grouped into groups of eight or more, and then each reed shall be pulled in by hand. In this case, the reed density shall be 72 or more reeds per 3.78 centimeters.
  (3) Adjusting the position of the "Twill Bamboo" and weaving while manually adjusting the tension of the warp threads to be uniform.

   

  4. In the case of a fully woven fabric, it shall be a patterned fabric woven using the following techniques or methods:
  (1) The fabric shall be a pre-dyed or pre-processed warp-layered weave using the "jacquard weave" technique.
  (2) The warp threads shall be grouped into groups of 10 or more, and then each reed shall be pulled in by hand. In this case, the reed density shall be 70 or more per 3.78 centimeters.
  (3) Adjusting the position of the "Twill Bamboo" and weaving while manually adjusting the tension of the warp threads to be uniform.
  (4) The crest shall be represented by a "floating" design.

   

  5. When weaving in layers, the patterned fabric shall be woven using the following techniques or methods.
  (1) The fabric shall be a pre-dyed or pre-processed warp and weft overlay weave using the "jacquard weave" technique.
  (2) The warp threads shall be grouped into groups of 13 or more, and then each reed shall be pulled in by hand. In this case, the reed density shall be 73 or more per 3.78 centimeters.
  (3) Adjusting the position of the "Twill Bamboo" and weaving while manually adjusting the tension of the warp threads to be uniform.
  (4) The crest shall be represented by warp threads or warp and weft threads.

   

  6. When weaving with a gauze weave, the gauze fabric shall be woven using the following techniques or methods.
  (1) The fabric shall be a pre-dyed or pre-processed warp-woven fabric using the "jacquard weave" method.
  (2) For weaving machines that use a hand-thrown shuttle or a pull shuttle to insert the weft threads, the warp threads shall be grouped into sets of five or more threads and then manually pulled in one by one into each reed dent. For other machines, the warp threads shall be grouped into sets of eleven or more threads and then manually pulled in one by one into each reed dent. In this case, the reed density shall be 15 or more dents per 3.78 centimeters, and 60 or more dents per 3.78 centimeters for other machines.
  (3) Adjusting the position of the "Twill Bamboo" and weaving while manually adjusting the tension of the warp threads to be uniform.
  (4) The crest shall be expressed by "floating" or by using the ground thread or the weft thread for the design.

   

  7. In the case of Hakata with picture weft, the patterned fabric shall be woven using the following techniques or methods.
  (1) The fabric shall be a plain weave variation, twill weave, satin weave, or a variation thereof, which is pre-dyed or pre-processed using the "jacquard weave" technique.
  (2) The warp threads shall be grouped into groups of six or more, and then each reed shall be pulled in by hand. In this case, the reed density shall be 55 or more per 3.78 centimeters.
  (3) Adjusting the position of the "Twill Bamboo" and weaving while manually adjusting the tension of the warp threads to be uniform.
  (4) The pattern shall be made with weft threads. In this case, the weft threads of the pattern, other than those of plain weave variations, shall be sewn together with warp threads on the back.

   

  raw materials

  1. The threads used shall be raw silk or silk threads of equivalent quality, or gold threads, silver threads, or lacquer threads.

  2. The foil used shall be gold foil, silver foil, or lacquer foil, or one that has equivalent properties.

• Work scene

  Work scene

  Step 1: Design

  The "design" department determines the patterns for HAKATA Ori (Textiles), and it's no exaggeration to say that the product's reputation and sales depend on this design. Following the weaving design, the pattern is enlarged and transferred onto graph paper, and the colors are changed according to the weave structure, with each stitch being carefully colored. Recently, computers have been introduced, greatly streamlining the work in the design department, but it remains a job that requires delicate attention and a rich sensibility, both now and in the past.

  

  工程2： 染色

  HAKATA Ori (Textiles) is a pre-dyed silk fabric. The pattern and colors used are determined at the design stage, and the threads are dyed based on that design. To give the raw silk a luster, it is washed with soapy water (scouring), a dye solution is prepared in a vat, and the warp and weft threads are dyed. Because the season and weather greatly affect the dyeing process, the skilled technique of the craftsman is crucial to produce the colors according to the color samples.

  

  Process 3: Machine setup

  The warp threads are adjusted. This process is crucial for creating the patterned weave of Hakata-HAKATA Ori (Textiles). It requires careful handling because many fragile silk threads are being worked on simultaneously.

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  工程4： 製織

  The weaving is carried out using the traditional technique of "counter-strike, triple-strike." This technique, which combines strength and skill, refines the "intricateness" and "firmness" that are the hallmarks of HAKATA Ori (Textiles) weaving.

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• Close-up

  Close-up

  Hakata-HAKATA Ori (Textiles) shine with the times.

  HAKATA Ori (Textiles) has a history spanning 750 years. It can be said that the pioneering spirit that skillfully blends "traditional techniques" and "a sense of the times" is what has nurtured HAKATA Ori (Textiles). Its traditional beauty is filled with the passionate spirit of the people of Hakata.

   

  Spread of tradition

  A 10-minute walk west from Hakata Station, I visited HAKATA Ori (Textiles) Industry Association. The workshop located within the association's building is open to the public for tours. Fukuo Watanabe, a traditional HAKATA Ori (Textiles) craftsman, is working hard to promote HAKATA Ori (Textiles) in that workshop.
  Watanabe entered the world of HAKATA Ori (Textiles) in 1952. After graduating from junior high school, he was looking for work when he was approached by a HAKATA Ori (Textiles) shop two doors down from where he was living, who asked him if he'd like to try it out. His initial wages as an apprentice were 80 yen a day, barely enough to cover his food expenses. However, Watanabe was skilled with his hands and a hard worker, so the weaving shop took notice of him, and he completed his three-year apprenticeship while attending night school. In his fourth year, he was entrusted with weaving obi sashes, and his salary increased tenfold. With the help of a booming economy, he was earning twice the salary of an average employee. Today, he is a leading figure in HAKATA Ori (Textiles), designated as a traditional craftsman in both weaving and design.

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    Once weaving begins, it takes approximately two days to complete, and the weaving is done in one continuous process.

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    The finished obi will have a mark woven into it that proves it is a traditional craft.

  A new world of HAKATA Ori (Textiles)

  Like other textile production areas, Hakata-ori HAKATA Ori (Textiles) are also undergoing changes over time. Demand for HAKATA Ori (Textiles) peaked with the opening of the Sanyo Shinkansen in 1975 and has continued to decline ever since. High-quality domestic silk yarn has decreased, and instead, silk is now imported from China, Vietnam, and Brazil.
  Amidst changing times, HAKATA Ori (Textiles) Cooperative has challenged itself to explore various new fields. In 1983, it became the first in the industry to successfully create a floppy disk for jacquard weaving, reducing the warp-laying process, which previously required two people, to just one. This method was then adopted by weaving production areas throughout Japan.
  In 1984, they collaborated with bridal designer Yumi Katsura to create HAKATA Ori (Textiles) dresses using Hakata-ori fabric, which received a great response. These wedding dresses were so popular that they have graced the faces of tens of thousands of brides over the past 18 years.
  In 1993, a vestment designed by Yumi Katsura was presented to Pope John Paul II. The vestment features a design of the pansy, the national flower of Poland, the Pope's homeland. Despite its imposing appearance, it is said to be very light and comfortable to wear thanks to the use of high-quality silk and traditional techniques.

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    Digital weaving. It's possible to create weaving patterns from data captured with a digital camera.

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    Bridal dresses designed by Yumi Katsura became a sensation.

  The best obi (sash) is from Hakata.

  Hakata obi are so popular that they're practically synonymous with men's obi. Many people are fans of Hakata obi because they don't easily loosen once tied. Sumo wrestlers also wear Hakata obi. When Akebono was promoted to Ozeki, Watanabe wove an orange heko obi for him.
  In addition to men's obi, there is also a wide variety of women's obi, including datejime, yukata obi, and fukuro obi. When paired with kasuri or Nishijin kimonos, the crisp HAKATA Ori (Textiles) unique to Hakata weave is highlighted.
  The supple and stylish Hakata obi lies in the crucial process of weaving the weft threads and then vigorously beating and tightening them. This process requires the strength of male weavers. The powerful rhythm of weaving gives the obi a unique charm not found in other production areas.

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    Work by Fukuo Watanabe (right)

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    From right to left: Fukuro obi, 8-inch Nagoya obi, men's obi, 4-inch single obi, small Fukuro obi.

  A New World of Tradition

  Weaving is a painstaking job. "I sweat and get tired, but I can put my heart into it if I think of it as work," says Watanabe. Two days are spent winding and matching the threads, and another two days for weaving. The key to a good finished product is to weave continuously from start to finish.
  Ms. Watanabe says, "I want more young people to wear stylish and fashionable Hakata obi sashes." Kimono are certainly expensive per piece, but they can be worn for a long time. They can be adjusted as your body shape changes, and they can even be passed down to your children.
  HAKATA Ori (Textiles) Cooperative has started selling its products online to introduce the quality of HAKATA Ori (Textiles) to younger generations. The cooperative's website allows customers to purchase HAKATA Ori (Textiles) products. By skillfully blending tradition with cutting-edge trends, HAKATA Ori (Textiles) continue to evolve today.

  

  "I'd really like young people to try out these stylish Hakata obi sashes."

  Anecdotes

  Hakata-HAKATA Ori (Textiles) presented as a gift

  Approximately 750 years ago, Yasaburo Mitsuda, a merchant from Hakata, traveled to China (then the Song Dynasty) with a monk named Shoichi Kokushi and brought back weaving techniques to Hakata. The traditional patterns were designed at Yasaburo's request to Shoichi Kokushi. The patterns include designs such as the "dokko-gara," which features a dokko (a vajra), an Indian weapon used for self-defense that is considered a symbol of crushing worldly desires and representing the aspiration for enlightenment, and the "hanazara," a plate used to scatter flowers as an offering to Buddha. Approximately 370 years ago (during the Edo period), Nagamasa Kuroda, the lord of the Chikuzen domain at the time, chose Hakata-ori HAKATA Ori (Textiles) as a gift to present to the shogunate. The design of the ceremonial obi (sash) features not only a vajra and a flower plate, but also the "Nakakomochi" pattern, which consists of two thick lines with a thin line in between, and the "Ryōkomochi" pattern, which consists of one thick line sandwiched between two thin lines, expressing the parental love that has been a part of Japanese culture since ancient times.

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    Traditional patterns of Hakata obi

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    Vajra and flower plate