The origins of KAGA Yuzen (Dyeing) can be traced back to "umezome," a dyeing technique unique to Kaga. Historical documents indicate that "umezome" already existed in the mid-15th century.
In addition to plum dyeing, other dyeing techniques such as "Kenbo-zome" and "Iroe-mon" have been passed down in Kaga since ancient times, and these were collectively called "Okuni-zome." Based on these Kaga Okuni-zome techniques, KAGA Yuzen (Dyeing) was established in the mid-Edo period when Miyazaki Yuzensai instructed people in painting-style pattern dyeing. Miyazaki Yuzensai is said to have started Yuzen dyeing in Kyoto, spent his later years in Kanazawa, and taught Yuzen dyeing there.

• Technology/techniques/raw materials

  Technology/techniques/raw materials

  Technology/techniques

  1. In the case of hand-painted Yuzen dyeing, the following techniques or methods shall be used:
  (1) The colors and designs shall be in a pictorial style based on the "Kaga Five Colors".
  (2) The preliminary sketch should be drawn using "Aihana" (blue flower).
  (3) Use "thread-type glue" for setting the glue.
  (4) When dyeing the base color black, do not use a resist paste.
  (5) If embroidery is to be done, it must be done in the style of "Kaga embroidery".

   

  2. In the case of Itaba Yuzen, the following techniques or methods shall be used:
  (1) The stencil shall be made of paper made by pasting handmade Japanese paper with persimmon tannin, or a similar paper on which a Yuzen pattern has been carved.
  (2) The shaping process involves matching the pattern by hand.

   

  raw materials

  The fabric must be silk.

• Work scene

  Work scene

  KAGA Yuzen (Dyeing) is said to have originated when Yuzensai of Miyazaki collaborated with Taroda-ya, the official dyer for the domain, to create patterned dyes based on "Kaga no Okunizome," a dyeing technique perfected in Kanazawa by the early Edo period. It is considered synonymous with richly colored, delicate, and elegant Japanese patterned dyeing, and is characterized by its use of flowers, birds, and landscapes as its base, the five classic colors known as Kaga colors—crimson, indigo, ochre, grass green, and ancient purple—and its unique shading technique.

  Step 1: Design

  Design is the process where the Yuzen artist decides on the pattern and design of the kimono. It is one of the tasks where the artist's individuality is most evident, and it is also the most challenging part. While respecting the traditions of KAGA Yuzen (Dyeing), the artist explores new designs based on the nature, culture, and classical aspects of Kanazawa, creating patterns that convey the image they wish to express.

  

  Step 2: Pre-fitting

  The fabrics used include Tango Chirimen (Kyoto) and Hamachirimen (Nagahama, Shiga Prefecture), as well as silk produced in the Komatsu region of Ishikawa Prefecture and the Fukui region. To match the seams of the continuous pattern, the white fabric is pre-cut into the shape of a kimono, including the sleeves, collar, and bodice, and then temporarily sewn together.

  

  Step 3: Sketch

  A life-size drawing of the kimono on high-quality paper is placed on a glass-covered tracing stand, and light is shone from below. A temporarily made white piece of fabric is placed over the drawing, and the drawing is traced over with a brush dipped in the juice of the dayflower (commonly known as "aohana"). In some cases, the underdrawing is drawn directly onto the fabric instead of tracing.

  

  Step 4: Applying paste

  Drawing lines along the outline of the sketch, the glue is squeezed from the tube. This glue is called thread glue, and it acts as a barrier to prevent the dyes used in the subsequent coloring process from bleeding or mixing.

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  Step 5: Pre-filling

  Once the paste has been applied, a thin layer of soybean paste or seaweed paste is brushed onto the back and immediately dried over a high flame. This is to erase the blue underpainting and to allow the paste to adhere to the fabric.

  

  Process 6: Coloring

  Coloring is the central step in the Yuzen dyeing process. Based on traditional colors such as the Kaga Five Colors, the colors are applied using brushes and small brushes. During this process, a low flame is applied to prevent the color from bleeding through to the back of the fabric. After this, the fabric is steamed to fix the color in place. This is to prevent the dye from being absorbed by the paste used in the next layering step.

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  Step 7: Filling

  The filling process is preparation for the next step, the base dyeing, and involves applying paste over the pattern to prevent the base color from adhering to the colored areas.

  

  Step 8: Dyeing the base

  Ground dyeing is the process of dyeing a large, uncolored area of the fabric. In ground dyeing, the entire base color of the kimono is dyed evenly using a large brush.

  

  Step 9: Steaming

  Once the base dye has dried, the fabric is placed in a steaming box and steamed. This causes the fibers to expand, allowing the dye to penetrate the fabric and fix the color.

  

  Step 10: Rinse with water

  To wash away the starch and excess dye from the fabric, it is soaked in clean running water and left to dry for about an hour. This is the famous Yuzen-nagashi process, which was once carried out in rivers. The traces of the washed-away starch remain as thin white lines, and the beauty of these lines is a major characteristic of KAGA Yuzen (Dyeing).

  

  工程11： 完成

  After washing, KAGA Yuzen (Dyeing) undergoes drying, steaming, finishing, and dye correction before completion.