While the tie-dyeing technique itself originated in the Nara period, ARIMATSU NARUMI Shibori (Tie-dyeing) was established around the beginning of the Edo period.
It is said that when the daimyo of Bungo (present-day Oita Prefecture) was ordered to help build Nagoya Castle, the techniques were introduced by people he brought with him from Bungo.
Subsequently, under the protection of the Owari Domain, which ruled what is now Aichi Prefecture, tireless efforts led to the creation and development of a wide variety of elegant tie-dyeing techniques, which continue to this day.

• Technology/techniques/raw materials

  Technology/techniques/raw materials

  Technology/techniques

  1. When sewing and tying, the following techniques or methods shall be used:
  (1) Use blue and white pigment for the underpainting.
  (2) The tying shall be done by flat stitching, mountain stitching, or rolled stitching. In this case, the tying shall be tightened evenly.

   

  2. In the case of the rolled-up tie-dyeing technique, the following techniques or methods shall be used:
  (1) Use blue and white pigment for the underpainting.
  (2) The tie should be tightened with a flat stitch, and then "rolled up".

   

  3. In the case of leather wrapping tie-dyeing, the following techniques or methods shall be used:
  (1) Use blue and white pigment for the underpainting.
  (2) After tightening the tie with flat stitching, the dye-resistant portion shall be "wrapped in leather" and "rolled up".

   

  4. In the case of Miura Shibori, the following techniques or methods shall be used:
  The knotting process involves using a Miura knotting stand to wrap the thread once, then tightening it.

   

  5. In the case of Kanoko Shibori, the following techniques or methods shall be used:
  (1) Use blue and white pigment for the underpainting.
  (2) The knotting is done by using a kanoko knotting stand, wrapping the thread around it two to seven times, and then tightening it.

   

  6. In the case of a hand choke, the following techniques or methods shall be used:
  (1) The creasing process involves using a hand creasing stand to create vertical folds in the fabric, followed by winding the thread.
  (2) The binding shall be done by "tornado processing".

   

  7. In the case of spider weaving, the following techniques or methods shall be used:
  The binding process involves using a spider-binding stand to "roll up" the fabric from the base of the "pleated" section.

   

  8. In the case of board-clamping tie-dyeing, the following techniques or methods shall be used:
  (1) "Itajime" is the process of folding the dough vertically into a triangle or square.
  (2) The pattern should be triangular or square in shape and secured with thread.

   

  9. Box dyeing and tie-dyeing shall be carried out using the following techniques or methods:
  Packing involves first creating pleats and then securing the finished product to the box using thread.

   

  10. In the case of Arashi Shibori, the following techniques or methods shall be used:
  Binding involves using a "storm stick" and a "test" to "tie the thread."

   

  11. In the case of Murakumo Shibori, the following techniques or methods shall be used:
  The "kukuri" technique involves flat stitching the fabric into a sash shape, followed by creating pleats using a Murakumo tie-dyeing stand.

   

  raw materials

  1. The fabric shall be silk or cotton.

  2. The tying thread shall be made of cotton, silk, or hemp.

• Work scene

  Work scene

  Step 1: Pattern carving

  The design is carved into the stencil.

  

  Step 2: Underpainting

  The design is printed onto the fabric using a blue dye that washes off easily with water or hot water.

  

  Step 3: Binding

  The fabric is tied with cotton thread. Through continuous advancements in technology and techniques, we have created over 100 different tying methods.

  

  工程4： 染色

  The tied, semi-finished products are dyed. Each bolt of fabric is immersed in the dye more than 20 times. When creating multi-colored products, the tying and dyeing process varies depending on the method used.

  

  Step 5: Remove threads

  After dyeing, the tied threads are removed once the fabric is completely dry. The tightly tied threads are removed with the utmost care to avoid damaging the fabric. Since the fabric will have shrunk after the threads are removed, it is steamed to restore its shape.

  
• Close-up

  Close-up

  The traditional beauty and technique of ARIMATSU NARUMI Shibori (Tie-dyeing) as depicted in Ukiyo-e prints.

  Arimatsu is a town that has grown up alongside the art of tie-dyeing. Along the old Tokaido road, rows of old merchant houses remain, just as they were in the Edo period. Located next to Narumi, which flourished as a post town, Arimatsu's tie-dyeing became widely known as a souvenir purchased by travelers, and its traditional beauty continues to captivate people's hearts today.

   

  A masterpiece born from a competition of skills

  A visit to a long-established tie-dyeing shop housed in an old family home reveals a dazzling array of vibrantly colored tie-dyed products. The hundreds of different tying techniques and the skilled dyeing techniques that enhance them are truly remarkable. The simple beauty of these meticulously crafted pieces possesses a unique character, making them cherished items to be used for years to come. The division of labor was established around the end of the 18th to the beginning of the 19th century, with the process involving multiple artisans—from stencil carving and underpainting to tying and dyeing—resulting in a magnificent display of skill.

   

  The dazzling beauty of tie-dyeing. There are many different types of tie-dyeing.

  Dyeing techniques that make use of delicate tie-dyeing methods

  Norihisa Miura is one of the artisans specializing in dyeing. He says he started working with tie-dyeing in the 1960s, a time of rapid economic growth. "Even just with yukata, there was so much work that we couldn't dye it all." Now, the variety of items he handles has increased, and in addition to traditional Japanese clothing such as kimonos and yukatas, he also works on handkerchiefs, scarves, blankets, and apparel products such as dresses and skirts. Although he now uses chemical dyes and there are countless colors of dyes available, he says the difficulty of dyeing lies in the fact that the way the dye takes differs depending on the fabric. "Even if you are given a color sample and think it's okay to make a small sample, when you dye a large quantity in a large vat, the finished color will be different." It is rare to find a dye that perfectly matches the color that is requested. Usually, he has to mix three or more colors. "Tie-dyeing is something where the pattern is created by some kind of human effort. There is a sense of familiarity in its handmade simplicity." How to dye beautifully according to the tying process and the fabric is where the skill of the dyeing artisan comes into play. "I'm happy when my favorite wood grain tie-dye pattern turns out well," says Miura, who also has various plans for the future, saying, "I want to create products that I've designed myself and handle sales as well."

  The dyeing process doesn't finish in a single step; it requires repeated immersion.

  It's a shame that traditional techniques are disappearing.

  Recently, some of the tie-dyeing process has been moved to China. In order to preserve and pass on the traditional tie-dyeing techniques, locals are actively working to train successors. Asako Sakakibara, who owns a tie-dyeing shop in Narumi and works on her own creations, also leads a busy life, teaching at classes in the Tokai region and Tokyo for half of each month. She has been familiar with tie-dyeing since she was in elementary school and continued to do tie-dyeing as a side job for a long time, but when she was 44, she suffered a serious illness, which made her think, "I want to leave something behind as proof that I lived." She also took on the challenge of "Shirakage Shibori," which she heard no one could do anymore. She will never forget the time when a 94-year-old grandmother born in the Meiji era took notice of her and taught her "Mino Shibori." The tie-dyeing process is basically divided into different tasks, but she does everything herself, from carving the stencils to dyeing. She is the only traditional craftsperson of ARIMATSU NARUMI Shibori (Tie-dyeing) to be certified in the "Comprehensive Category."

  I enjoy expressing my own ideas.

  "I've studied all sorts of things for 60 years—tanka, haiku, painting, music, pottery, literature... I feel like it's all blossoming now." She is currently a university student studying through distance learning. "I've never had anything superfluous up until now," she says, and it seems that everything she has learned is proving useful in various ways in her tie-dyeing work. While chemical dyes are commonly used for dyeing, Ms. Sakakibara insists on using real indigo. "I enjoy the unexpected results when I unravel the threads." What she has noticed while teaching in her classes is that people who buy high-quality tie-dye products are those who have studied tie-dyeing. "I hope that Japanese techniques will survive, even if only as a hobby," she says, striving to pass on her techniques, while also being full of enthusiasm to "create new patterns and new techniques" herself. Not only is she preserving tradition, but a new tradition is also being born from here.

  The sliding doors and lanterns adorned with tie-dyeing have a charming, traditional feel.

  Craftsman Profile

  ​Norihisa Miura

  Born in 1946. After graduating from university, he became a dyeing craftsman. "I want to continue to be particular about dyeing by hand."

  

  ​Asako Sakakibara

  Born in 1926, she works as a tie-dye artist and also teaches at several workshops.

  

  Anecdotes

  Incorporate tie-dyeing into your attire to enhance your lifestyle.

  At the Arimatsu Shibori specialty shop, you'll find not only kimonos and yukatas, but also a wide variety of products that can be incorporated into everyday wear, such as T-shirts and dresses. From navy blue to multi-colored designs, even with the same design, each piece has a unique tie-dyeing technique, making the selection process enjoyable. There's also a rich selection of accessories such as scarves, hats, and parasols, perfect for adding a touch of style. It's sure to broaden your fashion horizons. Even if expensive bolts of fabric are out of your reach, it might be nice to get acquainted with traditional Japanese techniques through more accessible items. Recently, handmade interior items with a simple and calming feel, such as Asian雑貨 (Asian goods) and Japanese antiques, seem to be gaining popularity. Why not subtly incorporate Shibori items into your room decor?

  • How to coordinate a T-shirt with a scarf