KAGA Nui (Embroidery) was introduced from Kyoto in the early Muromachi period, along with the spread of Buddhism to the Kaga region, primarily as decorative embellishments for Buddhist altars (uchishiki) and monks' robes (kesa).
During the Edo period, it came to be used in the samurai jackets and personal belongings of shoguns and feudal lords. It was also used in the kimonos of their wives, and its noble beauty was highly appreciated.
Thanks to the generous protection of successive lords of the Kaga Domain, who valued and encouraged culture and scholarship, "Kaga embroidery" developed and perfected its own unique style, standing alongside "Kaga gold leaf" and "Kaga Yuzen dyeing."

• Technology/techniques/raw materials

  Technology/techniques/raw materials

  Technology/techniques

  1. When using dyed yarn, the yarn should be dyed before winding.

  2. The yarn must be twisted using either a "spinning" or "hand-twisting" method.

  3. Embroidery shall be done using a hand embroidery needle, and shall be done using the following techniques: chain stitch, basting stitch, sedge stitch, koma stitch, stitch cutting, sagara stitch, cross stitch, split stitch, embroidery, patterned stitch, cut and pressed stitch, braided stitch, padded stitch, Takeyamachi stitch, or mustard stitch.

   

  raw materials

  1. The threads used for "embroidery" shall be silk thread, lacquer thread, gold thread, silver thread, gold foil thread, or silver foil thread.

  2. The "embroidered base" shall be made of silk fabric.

• Work scene

  Work scene

  Here's a brief introduction to the process of creating KAGA Nui (Embroidery).

  Step 1: Draft

  I will start the preliminary sketching process. I will draw the original image using a pencil or brush (ink) to create the design.

  

  Step 2: Sketching

  Place the sketch on a lighting stand, then place a cloth over it and hold it up to the light to accurately transfer the image.

  

  Step 3: Dyeing the yarn

  The silk threads are immersed in water containing dye and then dyed with acid for about 20 minutes. The dyed threads are then air-dried in the shade.

  

  Process 4: Color scheme

  While considering the embroidery technique, we select threads that match the fabric color and pattern.

  

  Step 5: Fabric stretching

  Fabric stretching is divided into two types: "frame stretching" and "frame stretching." Frame stretching involves passing the fabric through a grooved rod and stretching it vertically and horizontally, ensuring that the fabric is stretched precisely to prevent distortion. Then, the horizontal threads are tightened to the appropriate tension. On the other hand, when sewing small items such as crests, a square frame called frame stretching is used.

  

  Step 6: Twisting the thread

  Thread twisting is the process of twisting thread to the required color and thickness. There are two methods: "hand twisting," which is done by hand, and "spinning," which is done using tools. In spinning, the thread is placed on both ends of the twisting stand and tied to a twisting board. Then, it is rotated by hand to twist each end.

  

  Process 7: Embroidery processing

  There are over 10 different types of embroidery needles alone, each with a flat eye and a consistent needle length, and they are all handmade. In the embroidery process, these needles are used to stitch patterns stitch by stitch according to the design. KAGA Nui (Embroidery) creates works using more than 15 different traditional techniques (*note).

  

  工程8： 仕上げ

   

  画像をクリックすると動画が再生されます

   

  画像をクリックすると動画が再生されます

   

• Close-up

  Close-up

  Kaga KAGA Nui (Embroidery) hand-embroidered art that combines beautiful colors with delicate techniques.

  The history of KAGA Nui (Embroidery) dates back to the early Muromachi period, and its origins are closely related to the spread of Buddhism in the Kaga region.
  Its distinguishing feature is the luxuriousness of the patterns and pictures, meticulously hand-stitched stitch by stitch. A wide variety of threads, including gold and silver, adorn each piece, creating a truly unique design.

   

  These works, crafted with pride and heartfelt dedication, were once synonymous with high-quality kimono fabrics.

  In those days, KAGA Nui (Embroidery) was primarily used to adorn Buddhist altars (uchishiki) and monks' robes (kesa). It was not merely decorative embroidery, but was considered something extremely sacred. Later, during the Edo period, it was used to decorate the samurai jackets and belongings of shoguns and feudal lords, and it developed further. However, it was also synonymous with very high-class kimono, and was only seen on the visiting kimonos of the wives of wealthy merchants and the wedding kimonos of daughters of rich families.

  

  Each piece is intricately embroidered with silk threads, showcasing numerous fine techniques.

  Creating a wide variety of trends to suit each era.

  From the Taisho to the Showa era, it was fashionable to dress up with han-eri (half-collars). Adding embroidered or dyed crests to these han-eri was considered stylish, and the demand for KAGA Nui (Embroidery) skyrocketed, at one point accounting for nearly 90% of the total market share in Japan. The number of artisans reached 3,000, and more than 700 workshops specializing in KAGA Nui (Embroidery) were established, making it a hugely popular craft. However, with the rise of sewing machines and the influx of inferior products from Korea, Taiwan, and China KAGA Nui (Embroidery) has now become a rare and rare tradition.

  

  I select the threads and embroider them while considering the colors to match the sketch.

  The first year was spent practicing relentlessly until my hands memorized the movements.

  We spoke with Etsuko Morimoto, who entered this world where only female artisans work, about the appeal of KAGA Nui (Embroidery). "Even for people with nimble fingers, it takes at least three years to master the basic techniques. It's been about 10 years for me, and at first I thought it was really difficult. Until my hands memorized the basics, it was a continuous series of failures. No matter how many times I tried, I couldn't embroider the way I wanted." Morimoto is one of the women who moved to Kanazawa and loves the city dearly. She wanted to do something unique to this town for a living, and she got this job through an acquaintance's introduction.

  

  Selecting the right colors from the yarn shelf to match the design is also an important step in the process.

  15 Techniques to Create a World of Vibrant Colors

  "The distinctive feature of KAGA Nui (Embroidery) lies in the beauty of the patterns and pictures created by hand-stitching each stitch with a wide variety of threads, including gold and silver threads. Another characteristic is that it always incorporates one of 15 different techniques. The time required varies depending on the amount of embroidery, but a half-collar can take a week, while a obi can take one to three months."
  The needles are custom-made by a shop that has only one such shop in Hiroshima. There are about 10 different types to match the thickness of the thread, but all of them have sharp, short tips and flattened edges to prevent them from puncturing the fabric. The scissors are also said to be handmade and custom-made.

  

  Both the needle and scissors are specially made. The needle is sharp, and the edges are flattened.

  Each piece, embroidered with heartfelt emotion, is a one-of-a-kind work of art.

  The embroidery techniques and needlework are intricate and beautiful to behold, but those who specialize in embroidery don't simply follow a design and machine instructions by hand. First, they select the right silk thread color for the fabric, and then they carefully consider the combination of thread colors and stitching methods as they work.
  "My color choices change slightly depending on my mood that day, and even between daytime and evening. Even if I choose the same fabric and thread, the color scheme changes a little bit each time I embroider. That's why every finished piece is a one-of-a-kind item."
  To see subtle differences in color, I always work next to a north-facing window that lets in natural light. Working under fluorescent lights can cause a bluish tint, resulting in a finish that's completely different from what I envisioned.
  "In the future, I'd like to create not only traditional Japanese items like kimono sashes and collars, but also Western-inspired items like bags. Scarves have become popular recently, and I'm also considering making tablecloths as interior decor items."
  It was as if Morimoto's kindness and love had been embroidered into every finished piece along with the thread.

  

  Etsuko Morimoto, a KAGA Nui (Embroidery) with a strong will.

  Craftsman Profile

  Etsuko Morimoto

  I moved to Kanazawa and got this job through an acquaintance's introduction, and I have KAGA Nui (Embroidery) for 10 years.
  She also has the gentle side of a mother, recently mentioning that she embroidered her daughter's kimono for her coming-of-age ceremony.

  Anecdotes

  Other product introductions

  Until now, KAGA Nui (Embroidery) has mainly produced high-end kimono fabrics, but in recent years, with the decline in demand for kimonos and the influx of cheap, inferior products from overseas, we are trying to develop a variety of products that can be incorporated into new lifestyles.
  The stoles, created to capitalize on the popularity of pashmina, are apparently popular not only with older people but also with a wide range of age groups. Additionally, the lights made from silk threads and inspired by the shape of a silkworm cocoon are said to be well-received for their ability to complement Western-style interiors.
  The obi designs and colors aren't limited to traditional styles; we also incorporate innovative designs that reflect current trends.
  We've started market research by conducting surveys with potential customers and implementing a monitoring program to find out what kinds of products they appreciate. We're also currently developing other items such as business card holders and bags.

  • 

    A stole designed with a slightly Western style in mind.

  • 

    Some floor lamps have a gentle, cocoon-like shape and are adorned with Kaga KAGA Nui (Embroidery).

  • 

    The obi's design and colors have also been modernized.