Although dyeing cloth black has a very long history dating back to the 10th century, it was not until the 17th century that it became established in Japan as a recognized craft including family crests.

In the middle of the Edo era (1600-1868), binrouji zome, which used indigo and other dyes to pre-dye the cloth, dominated this craft, which became a favorite with the warrior classes. Then at the beginning of the Meiji era (1868-1912), its application spread widely due to the fact that haori, the short black overcoat kimono emblazoned with family crests on the back, came into more general use on formal occasions. Gradually, with the introduction of dyeing techniques learned from the British and research done on dye in France and Germany, the rather laborious binrouji zome technique was dropped and present-day vat dyeing techniques became firmly established, along with two others, sando kuro and kuro senryu.

Silk is used, and in order to perfect the depth and subtle tone of the black color, the cloth is pre-dyed with crimson or indigo using chemical dyes. Applying the family crest is either painted by hand or with a stencil. Material for neckties and arm bands is produced alongside fabric for kimonos and traditional haori worn on formal occasions.