The history of black dyeing is very old, dating back to the 10th century, but it is believed that it was established as a method for dyeing fabrics with black crests in the early 17th century.
From the mid-Edo period onward, "binrouji dyeing," which involved under-dyeing with indigo and other dyes, became the dominant method, and black crested kimonos became popular among the samurai class. In the Meiji era, crested haori and hakama were designated as the formal attire for the nation, leading to their widespread popularity. Furthermore, after acquiring British dyeing techniques and studying French and German dyeing methods, the time-consuming "binrouji dyeing" was replaced by the current black immersion dyeing method and the black shibori dyeing method using two techniques: "sandoguro" and "kurosenryo."

• Technology/techniques/raw materials

  Technology/techniques/raw materials

  Technology/techniques

  1. When applying paste to the crest, use a "paste tube" or "paste board".

  2. Dyeing shall be carried out using one of the following techniques or methods:
  (1) In the case of immersion dyeing, the fabric shall be pre-dyed with red or indigo before the main dyeing.
  (2) In the case of dyeing, one of the following shall be carried out:
  (i) In the case of "three-time black dyeing," a plant-based dye is used as the main dye, and the dyeing process is carried out at least twice using this dye and a mordant dye, etc.
  (b) When using "black dye," the dye should be applied after a base coat of red or indigo.

  3. When applying a crest design, it shall be done by hand-painting or by printing using a stencil with the crest engraved on it.

   

  raw materials

  The fabric must be silk.

• Work scene

  Work scene

  工程1： 検品

  Check the fabric for any scratches or creases.

  Step 2: Marking

  Determine the position of the crest and mark it with blue ink.

  

  Step 3: Applying the pattern paste

  To resist dyeing, glutinous rice paste is applied to both sides of the area where the crest will be placed.

  

  Step 4: Frame hanging (dyeing)

  Once the paste is dry, place the fabric on the pins of the frame. The frame is made with space between the fabrics to prevent uneven dyeing, so place the fabric taut.

  

  Step 5: Pre-dyeing

  To achieve a deep black color, a red or indigo under-dye is applied before the black dyeing process. This process allows for the creation of the elegant and refined black of KYO Kuro Montsuki Zome (Black Dyeing).

  

  Step 6: Blackening

  The dye bath is prepared according to the type and weight of the fabric. The fabric is then immersed in the dye bath, which is set to 95 degrees Celsius, for dyeing. Even at this stage, the fabric is repeatedly removed from the bath to prevent uneven dyeing. A skilled craftsman says that they can tell how well the fabric has been dyed just by removing it from the bath.

  

  Step 7: Washing, rinsing, and drying

  The excess dye used during the dyeing process is washed away. The resist paste used for dye resistance is also removed, any bleeding or stains on the crest areas are washed away, and the fabric is dried. Recently, drying is being done by machine.

  

  Step 8: Organize

  This process brings out the texture and flexibility of the dyed fabric. Furthermore, a waterproofing treatment is applied.

  

  Step 9: Steaming

  This process restores fabric that has shrunk or become distorted during the dyeing process. Steam is applied while the ends are pulled with needles and the fabric is rotated on rollers.

  

  Process 10: Crest painting

  We draw the family crest on the crest area using ink. This is very detailed work, requiring concentration as we carefully draw it using brushes and bamboo compasses.

  *In addition to immersion dyeing, there is also a black-brush dyeing technique.
  For black dyeing, the ends of the fabric are stretched using a stretching board, and any slack is pulled out with stretching needles every 30 to 40 centimeters.
  Next, the fabric is dyed by applying black dye with a brush. This process is repeated three times, with each front and back side being considered one step. The first step is logwood dyeing using plant dyes, the second step is noir dyeing using a reducing solution made by adding various mordants to logwood, and the third step is dichromate dyeing, which is used for the oxidative color development of logwood. This three-step dyeing process is called triple black dyeing. It is sometimes used in KYO Kuro Montsuki Zome (Black Dyeing), but it is a technique that is mostly used in KYO Yuzen (Dyeing).