NANIWA Hon Zome (Dyeing)

Osaka Prefecture

NANIWA Hon Zome (Dyeing) is a unique Japanese dyeing method developed in Osaka during the Meiji era for the purpose of mass-producing patterned tenugui (hand towels). Commonly known as Chusen, it dyes both sides of the fabric, ensuring the dye penetrates to the core of the threads, resulting in a textured finish. Yukata (summer kimono) dyed using this method gained popularity and spread throughout Japan. Currently, its applications extend beyond tenugui and yukata to various everyday items such as aloha shirts, coasters, and parasols.

  • Technology/techniques/raw materials

    Technology/techniques

    1. The paste application should be done according to the following description or technique.
    (1) Use a formwork with a pattern attached.
    (2) Apply the resist paste using a spatula.

    2 Dyeing shall be carried out using the following techniques or methods:
    (1) Apply glue Pouring dye onto the fabric..
    (2) The dyeing process is carried out on both the front and back sides using one or more of the following techniques: "ground dyeing," "partial dyeing," "gradation," or "Hosokawa dyeing.".
    (3) In the case of "sashiwake," "bokashi," and "Hosokawa,"Dyeing by hand-dyeing.

     

    raw materials

    The fabric must be a Japanese bleached cotton or cotton-linen blend.

overview

Craft item name NANIWA Hon Zome (Dyeing)
Reading Naniwa Honzome
Classification of crafts Dyed products
Main Products Tenugui (Japanese hand towel), yukata (Japanese summer kimono)
Main manufacturing area Sakai City, Kashiwara City
Designated date November 20, 2019

contact address

■ Production area association

Oricen Cooperative
541-0056
1-8-15 Kyutaro-cho, Chuo-ku, Osaka City, Osaka Prefecture
Naniwa Building, 9th Floor
TEL: 06-6261-0468
FAX: 06-6261-2685

https://www.osaka-orisen.com/

Features

Osaka has been a major production center for tenugui (Japanese hand towels) since the Edo period. Around 1887, a dyeing method was developed in Osaka in which fabrics coated with resist paste were layered and dyes were poured over them. Meiji-era craftsmen continued to innovate, devising dyeing techniques such as multi-color dyeing "sashiwake," "bokashi," and "hosokawa," refining dyeing techniques that evoke a traditional Japanese feel with hand-dyed colors. These dyeing techniques have been passed down as NANIWA Hon Zome (Dyeing) Naniwa traditional dyeing).

How to make it

The paste-applying artisans are called "itaba," and the dyers are called "tsubondo." The itaba operate the stencils, apply the resist paste, and fold each stencil. The way the paste is applied determines how the fabric is dyed. The tsubondo then dye the bundles of fabric that have been paste-applied. They create a barrier of resist paste and dye using techniques such as shading and blending. After dyeing, the excess paste and dye are washed off the fabric, and it is sun-dried to be finished into yukata and tenugui (hand towels).

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